I flushed most of the sand out. I now need to turn the boat over and flush out as much of the remaining sand and let it dry out. Then I will finish patching up the holes.
I am going to follow the West Systems Repair Manual guidelines which describe tapering the repait area back at a 12:1 ratio. I used my calipers to measure the thickness of the fiberglass at the hole and determined it was .31" At the recommended tapering, I need to go 12x.31", or 3.72"
As you can see in the picture below, I need a bigger taper area. About 1.5" radius larger than I have ground so far. BTW, I am using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disk to do this work. I will try a flap disk for the next phase.
As you can see in the picture below, I need a bigger taper area. About 1.5" radius larger than I have ground so far. BTW, I am using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disk to do this work. I will try a flap disk for the next phase.
There are also some various dings and gouges from previous uses Around the metal keel stip. I will fix them with epoxy filled with colloidal silica. I am thinking I might fair the area between the hull and the keel. I have decided to repaint the hull with some left over Awlgrip and thinking I might as well do the long board and complete job on the boat.
This boat rows shockingly well. I feel guilty not making the hull as good as I possibly can.
Next, I need to figure out how I want to make a backing plate. I am going to try the method described in the manual where I will make a single layer fiberglass piece which I will cut out with some scissors or the Dremel, then bend it enough to get in the hole where I can fasten it while it is bonded to the inside of the hull.
Next, I need to figure out how I want to make a backing plate. I am going to try the method described in the manual where I will make a single layer fiberglass piece which I will cut out with some scissors or the Dremel, then bend it enough to get in the hole where I can fasten it while it is bonded to the inside of the hull.